In late March, we spent five days paddling seventy miles of the upper Suwannee River. Dundee paddled his fifteen-foot aluminum Grumman canoe, Shaun was in an eleven-foot Old Town Cayuga kayak, and John and I in my sixteen-foot Old Town Penobscot canoe.
We frequently saw rope swings along the river. Summer had not yet come here, so we could only let our minds wander as to how much fun it would be to swing over the water, release, and drop into the cool Suwannee.
The upper and middle Suwannee is a dark brown-black color. This color is tannic acid released by decaying vegetation.
Our GPS showed the current to be around 3 miles per hour from our put-in through Big Shoals. Thereafter we noticed the current to be around 2 mph.
Day One – A Twenty miles Paddle to Big Shoals
In mid-morning we met two Florida State biologists. They demonstrated their shocking technique to inspect fish. This was particularly interesting, as last spring Dundee and I assisted NH Fish and Game as volunteers to stock salmon fry on the Souhegan River, and we were told about monitoring the fish population with a similar shocking technique.
Big Shoals is the Suwannee’s (and Florida) only set of rapids. Big Shoals was at Class III level, so we decided to portage (about a quarter mile carry). We camped on the bluff overlooking Big Shoals for the night. Click this video to enjoy our unique breakfast prepared by Chef John (or as we nicked him, Emeril Lagasse).
The below video shows the Big Shoals rapids, our superb breakfast, and our portage around Big Shoals.
The picture here is a fellow named Matt who built his own self-powered sail boat. He shared with me he was in a friendly race around Florida with six other competitors. His boat was most intriguing.
Day Two – sixteen miles to Swift Creek camp
We did see four alligators, but as they lie on the banks they look like logs, and when they spot us, they quick slid into the water before we can get a picture. We spotted many large turtles throughout the trek. I spotted a river otter twice, but again they are quicker than my picture taking. Hawks, red cardinals, and vultures flew overhead. We heard what appeared to sound like Barred owls at night.
Ogeechee Tupelo Tree
As we paddled we noticed a tall odd-shaped tree that was similar in color to the Cyprus and height, but obviously was a different category. In planning for this trip Dundee and I visited his relative who had worked along the Suwannee, and he told us to be aware of the Ogeechee Tupelo tree near or in the water. The tree is unique to warm and wet areas in northern Florida, South Carolina and North Carolina. The trees we saw were close to 40 feet in height and with a spreading flat-topped crown. Multiple, irregular branches and roots emerged from their trunks. It had dark brown or grey, ridged bark, and the base of the tree had swollen buttress-type roots. We were told that local people often use its fruit to make jelly.
We noticed as we got closer to Big Shoals, the river bank changed to more rock than sand, and we stopped seeing Ogeechee Tupelo trees.
Admittedly, the Ogeechee Tupelo tree looked weird to us, and you can judge for yourself by playing the video we took.
Day Three to Swift Creek
We generally sought camp on the river between 4 and 5 pm. Edwin McCook, Land Management Specialist for the Suwannee River Water Management District, had given us maps and GPS points of preferred riverside camp sites, and these points came in handy in looking for a good night’s accommodation.
I spotted a three foot brown and tan spotted snake, but again no picture.
Dundee decided to pitch his tent on a sand island in the River. In the morning he was on a peninsula as the River had dropped a few inches. Think of what might have happen if it had gone up!
Day Four – fifteen miles to Holton Creek River Camp
The Suwannee River Wilderness Trail River Camps (SuwaneeRiver.com), such as Woods Ferry and Holton Creek, are spaced a day’s travel apart, and generally accessible only by the river of hiking trail. We stayed overnight at the Holton Creek River Camp, and its resident host, Ed, made our stay exceptional. We highly recommend these river camps.

Sulpher springs on the Suwannee River were once promoted as a cure for almost any ailment. Today these sites are simply places of interest. At Suwannee Springs there is an old pool built out of limestone around a spring that was a resort in the late 1800’s and in the early 1900’s Folks would come and soak in the sulfur spring water for its healing properties.
I never want to say, "I wish I had paddled the Suwanee River to the Gulf of Mexico".