Hiking Gulf Hagas Trail - the Grand Canyon of Maine

The Trail Map We Used with MAP POINTS shown.

(This Map is from The Gulf Hagas Area Brochure received at the KI CheckPoint - Get it!!)

 The picture and text below are taken from a sign on the Gulf Hagas Trail

Gulf Hagas is a spectacular slate gorge carved by northern Maine's West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The river drops 500 feet along this three-mile stretch bordered by towering rock walls.  Loggers who worked in this area in the early 1800’s named the many waterfalls.  It is one of the many wonders found along the Appalachian National Scenic Trail (AT), a continuous footpath extending over 2,100 miles from Maine to Georgia.

Our Hikers
Hiking the Gulf Hagas Trail was recommended to us by Linwood “The Loon” Parsons, our Maine Master Guide for more than Thirty years of wilderness paddles and hikes. These Maine wilderness adventures are well documented in Http://www.outdoorsteve.com. “The Loon” could not join us for this Gulf Hagas Trail Hike, but Betty, Loon’s wife and fellow wilderness guide, assistant, planner, and certainly a dear friend, was happy to join us. Betty had hiked the Gulf Hagas Trail many times.
Tim, John, Dundee, Lennie, Joe, and I made a six-hour drive from Massachusetts and New Hampshire to Brownville, Maine where we had reservations for a cabin on Ebeemee Lake in northern Maine.

The Hike

Our seven-person hike began at KI Jo-Mary Checkpoint where we registered as hikers for the Gulf Hagas trail.  We then drove to the vehicle parking area near where the Appalachian Trail meets the West Branch of the Pleasant River.

The Loon had suggested that hiking The Gulf Hagas Trail required a second pair of footwear. When I questioned him he said, “The very first steps are to ford the Pleasant River, You can hide your wet sneakers on the other bank (for use when you do the return ford) and don your hiking boots.)”

Fording the Pleasant River

Swiftness & depth are keys to whether to ford. If the river is fast-flowing and above knee level then it is potentially dangerous. If it is above thigh height and moving quickly, it is a good idea to either rethink your crossing point and/or make camp and try again the following day. The Gulf Hagas Area Brochure says “ DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS FORD IN HIGH WATER CONDITIONS. USE THE HAY BROOK ROUTE.

A friend asked, “What was a highlight of your trip?” Given we did not finish all of our planned trip, and the uniqueness of this 150-foot moving water crossing on slippery rocks, which we crossed twice (going and returning). Our group has waded many brooks, with and without full clothing, but the Pleasant River was our first of such distance and cautious physical wariness.

Crossing Pleasant River

Following the Appalachian Trail (AT) and Gulf Hagas Trail.

After successfully crossing the Pleasant River without incident and putting our hiking boots back on, we continued our journey along the Appalachian Trail (AT). About a quarter into the well-trodden forest path, we reached a trail junction.

At this point, let me pause and reflect on the sign we passed:  APPALACHIAN TRAIL KATAHDIN-BAXTER PEAK 83.9 MILES. 

First, I must admit, I am not a through-hiker of the AT.  To those who have completed the entire 2,100 miles, earning the title of  "through hiker," I bow to you. I have countless questions and would listen in awe to your stories.  However, four of us in our group have hiked to Baxter Peak on Mt Katahdin, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail.  Not only did we reach Baxter Peak, but we also tackled the infamous 1.1-mile KNIFE EDGE TRAIL, often considered the most dangerous hiking trail in New England.  If you're curious about that adventure, I encourage you to read more about our experience on Hiking Maine's Fabled Knife Edge Trail

 Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness Trail: Monson to Abol Bridge

Much of the Gulf Hagas Trail we hiked is part of the AT, beginning in Monson, Maine, and ending at Abol Bridge, a critical supply point.  The term "100 Mile Wilderness" is a "coined" term to alert hikers of the remoteness and extended length of this AT section, where hikers must be prepared to go without resupply for days. 

We continued left, following the white blazes of the AT, and soon passed through a stand of white pine over 150 years old. These magnificent trees were harvested in the 1800’s to become the main masts of sailing ships. A bronze plaque here designates this stand as the “Hermitage,” and all the white pine are now protected. After another mile on the AT, we reach the junction with the Gulf Hagas Trail. (The AT continues northward summiting White Cap mountain in about nine miles). At this junction, we veered left onto the blue-blazed Gulf Hagas loop trail and immediately cross the Gulf Hagas Brook. Choosing the right rocks to step on took some time, but we made it safely across. On the other side, a bronze plaque embedded in a boulder marks the Gulf as part of the National Natural Historic Register. From here, we proceeded left, following Gulf Hagas Brook toward Screw Auger Falls.

The Trail Experience

Unfortunately, we did not finish our planned trail along the Gulf Hagas Rim Trail.  Just before reaching Map Point 4, we decided, due to our late hiking start, to backtrack and return to our Pleasant River crossing.

Below is the trip we had planned, as recommended by Loon, our Maine Master Guide, to reach Map Points 4 and 5.  At that point, we would decide whether to return or to continue to Map Point 6 and then loop back via the Appalachian Trail Cut-off.

As you follow the trail, remember that the path to your right is the return route for completing the loop. There are many short side trails (marked with double blue blazes) leading to scenic overlooks and waterfalls. Be sure to take them all. Between the lower and middle “Jaws” you'll see a protruding slab of rock that resembles an Indian Head. 

About a half mile above Buttermilk Falls you'll encounter a side trail leading off to the right (Map Point 7). Do NOT take this! Continue on the Rim Trail for an additional three-quarters of a mile until you reach the “Head of the Gulf” (Map Point 8). Near this point, you’ll find another trail junction. Bearing left will take you to Moosehead Lake near Beaver Cove, north of Greenville. Bearing right will return you to the AT junction at Gulf Hagas Brook. This return route is much easier and faster than retracing your steps on the Rim Trail.

For anyone attempting this hike, I strongly urge carrying The Gulf Hagas Area Green Brochure shown here for detailed trail descriptions and mile marker viewpoints. The Brochure is found at the KI Checkpoint hut.

A nine-minute video - The Gulf Hagas: The Grand Canyon of Maine

Many Thanks to Linwood and Betty for Our
Twenty Years of Maine Wilderness and Paddling Trips  

As General Douglas MacArthur once said, "We will be Back."

References

·      1. Maine Appalachian Trail Club
https://www.matc.org/

·       2. Appalachian Trail Conservancy
https://appalachiantrail.org/

·       3. Hiking Maine’s Fabled Knife Edge Trail https://outdooradventurers.blogspot.com/search?q=knife

·      4. Exploring Maine’s 100-Mile Wilderness
Afoot and afloat in Maine’s most beguiling backcountry https://www.outdoors.org/resources/amc-outdoors/history/exploring-the-100-mile-wilderness/

5. Remembering Trips to Maine's Allagash Wilderness Waterway

https://outdooradventurers.blogspot.com/2017/04/remembering-trips-to-maines-allagash.html

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